Often called the world's greatest open-air museum, Luxor is where ancient Egypt feels closest. Built on the site of Thebes, the capital of the pharaohs at the height of their power, the city is split by the Nile into two halves — the living east bank and the funerary west bank. For a first visit, here is how to make sense of it all.
The East Bank: temples of the living
The east bank, where the sun rises, was the city of the living. Its two great temples are unmissable. Karnak is a vast complex built and expanded over some 2,000 years; its Great Hypostyle Hall, a forest of 134 towering columns, is one of the most awe-inspiring sights in Egypt. A short distance away, Luxor Temple sits in the heart of the modern city and is especially magical after dark, when it is beautifully lit.
The West Bank: city of the dead
Across the river, where the sun sets, lie the tombs and mortuary temples. The Valley of the Kings hides the rock-cut tombs of pharaohs including Tutankhamun and Ramesses; their painted walls remain astonishingly vivid. Nearby are the elegant terraces of the Temple of Hatshepsut and the towering Colossi of Memnon, two enormous statues that have guarded the plain for over 3,000 years.
How much time do you need?
Two full days let you see the highlights of both banks without rushing. With more time you can add Medinet Habu, the Ramesseum, the Tombs of the Nobles, or a visit to the Luxor Museum. Many travelers also begin or end a Nile cruise here, since Luxor is one of the two anchors of the classic Luxor–Aswan route.
Tips for your visit
Start early to beat both the heat and the crowds, especially in the Valley of the Kings. Bring water, sun protection and cash for tomb tickets, and consider a guide to bring the hieroglyphs and history to life. A sunrise hot-air balloon flight over the west bank is a memorable splurge if you have a morning to spare. For more ideas, see our Egypt travel blog or browse our Egypt tours and Nile cruises.